The Old Town: the heart of Donostia's pintxo scene
The Old Town (Alde Zaharra) of San Sebastián is a maze of pedestrian streets where, on every corner, you'll find a bar counter overflowing with pintxos. It's a unique gastronomic experience: going bar to bar, trying one or two specialities in each, accompanied by a txikito of wine or a zurito of beer. It's not about sitting in one place, but touring several venues.
What pintxos to try in San Sebastián
These are some of the most emblematic pintxos you shouldn't miss:
- Gilda: the original pintxo, with a guindilla pepper, anchovy and olive on a skewer. An essential classic and the first one you should try.
- Txuleta: a grilled beef pintxo, juicy and flavourful, a hallmark of Basque cuisine.
- Cod (bacalao): in its many versions, from battered to ajoarriero or pil-pil.
- Wild mushrooms and foie: seasonal pintxos that are genuine haute cuisine in miniature.
- Txangurro (spider crab): the taste of the Cantabrian Sea in one bite.
- Cheesecake: to finish, the famous Donostia cheesecake, creamy and lightly toasted, known worldwide.
The ritual: order at the bar, pair with a txikito, pay and move to the next bar. The point is not to stay in one place and to try from several.
Cold and hot pintxos: how it works
- Cold pintxos on the bar: you see them displayed on the counter and take them yourself on a plate, or ask the waiter.
- Hot pintxos: usually ordered from the kitchen and made fresh; always ask for the daily specials, which tend to be the best.
- The bill: in many bars you pay on trust at the end; keep the toothpicks if the venue uses them to count.
When to go for pintxos in San Sebastián
The two classic txikiteo moments are midday (1-3pm) and the evening (8-10:30pm). In those windows the Old Town is livelier, but also busier: if you want a comfortable spot at the bar, arrive at the start of each window. Outside high season, weekdays are quieter.
How to get to the Old Town from Bilbao Airport
The Old Town is in the very centre of San Sebastián, 1h-1h15 from Bilbao Airport (BIO) via the AP-8. To get there directly and start your pintxo tour as soon as possible:
| Option | Price | Time | Door to door |
|---|---|---|---|
| Private taxi (fixed price) | From €170 / vehicle | 1h – 1h15 | ✅ Yes |
| PESA bus (Bilbao–Donostia) | ~€17 / person | 1h15 – 1h30 | ❌ No |
| Train (Renfe/Euskotren) | ~€10–25 / person | 2h30+ (with transfer) | ❌ No |
A taxi from Bilbao Airport to San Sebastián drops you as close as possible to the Old Town (which is a pedestrian area), without dragging luggage through the crowd or depending on bus timetables. Ideal if you arrive keen to start the txikiteo with no detours or transfers.
Combine pintxos with sightseeing
The Old Town is not only pintxos: it's also home to the Santa María del Coro Basilica, the Constitution Square and the access to Monte Urgull. And La Concha beach is a step away. Discover the rest of the city in our guide on what to see in San Sebastián in a weekend.
Tips for your pintxo tour
- Go hungry and unhurried: the point is to try a little from many places.
- Avoid peak hours if you want a spot at the bar: around 1pm or 8pm it fills quickly.
- Ask for the specials: the daily hot pintxos are usually the most special.
- Book the return transfer to the airport in advance, especially after a night of pintxos and wine.